Sunday, October 31, 2010
Vanuatu Bound
As of today everything looks good for a Vanuatu departure tomorrow. We will do a final weather check in the morning, then if all is well we'll do last minute provisioning in Lautoka and then clear out with customs and immigration. Should be a 4-5 day sail to Tanna, the island we plan to make our landfall in Vanuatu. Hoping for a boring passage - that's my favourite kind!
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Rest In Peace Tom Kollmer
Most of you who read this blog probably already know that the recent interruption in blog posts was due to the very sudden and very shocking death of Tom Kollmer. Tom has featured prominently in the last couple boat blog entries because he came sailing with us in Tonga and Fiji. On August 2, shortly after Tom returned to the US, he died suddenly while hiking in Vermont. We were devastated, but very, very glad we got to spend two extremely fun months with him when we did. He still seems very present on the boat because of all the fond memories we have of him from that time. We miss him very much.
Jeff and I learned about Tom's death while we were on the boat in Musket Cove. We are very grateful to the staff there for all the assistance they provided. With their help we were able to leave that very afternoon. Patrick and Sophie on the marina staff were particularly helpful with arrangements for the boat and many other staff members were extremely sympathetic and also very helpful with travel arrangements during this stressful time, and we are very grateful.
-----------------------------------
On October 10 Fred, Ashley and I flew back to Fiji while Jeff remained in the US to finish some business. Ashley, Fred's girlfriend, is the newest member of the crew and appears to be unfazed by the fate of our last fourth crew member.
Our first few days in Fiji were spent unpacking the 300 pounds of gear and supplies we had brought back with us from the land of plenty, and putting the boat back into cruising shape. We also enjoyed a few of Musket Cove's many amenities including drinks at the tiki bar, beach lounging, windsurfing, paddle boarding and the Thursday night pig roast followed by a demonstration of the local dancing skills. When the dancers came in to begin the program they passed close by my chair. As he went past, one of the warrior dancers lunged at me and let out a war yell right in my face. I let out a very girlly scream in response, much to the warrior's and Fred's delight. This may have been Fred's favorite part of the evening, winning out over even the delicious cracklin they serve as part of the feast.
Next we went to Vuda Point for some repairs. Ashley got certified for scuba diving while we were there also. Unfortunately, Vuda Point was every bit as hot as I remembered it being. The only relatively cool working hours are from 6 AM to 8 AM. Any time after that the place is like a giant open steam room. Fred, who always sweats a lot, was literally drenched with sweat the entire day, and I was not much drier. Thankfully most of the work got done quickly and we were able to rent a car and escape the heat for a few days.
We drove over to Pacific Harbour and tried to do the infamous Beqa shark dive, but found those dives were booked already for the days we were able to be there, we did soft coral dives instead and saw an underwater wreck, and some really cute, little, blue and yellow ribbon eels.
After that we went into the big town of Suva for a mad provisioning spree. Much to our amazement we found a Costco-like store and got so much stuff there that the car was scraping a bit each time we hit a dip on the way home. Suva itself seemed like most big cities in that there were some great parks and other seeming nice attractions (we didn't actually see any, only the inside of grocery stores), but also some areas you wanted to avoid entirely.
After that we drove back to Vuda point and sailed the next day back to Musket Cove for a joyful reunion with our friends Lisa and Lester on Obsession. It is always a joy to see these two! We were also happy to note that most of the repairs made in Vuda seemed to have taken, with the unfortunate exception of the refrigerator, which just wasn't working quite right.
Next day we sailed back to Port Denerau on the mainland for another joyful reunion with our last arriving crew member Jeff who flew in Tuesday morning. Hooray, Jeff is here!!!
Fred was also able to arrange that a part for our fridge got flown up from New Zealand with an incoming crew memeber for Obsession, which was quite fortuitous as the part is not available here and we know from previous experiences that having something mailed to an island in the Pacific is an extremely slow and frustrating process.
Our plans for the near future are to finish the repairs on the fridge (Ali is working on it as I write this), then head for Vanuatu as soon as the next weather window presents itself. We are all very excited about Vanuatu despite the fact that shark attacks occur there more frequently than anywhere else in the Pacific. Great. We are told, however, that the problems occur mostly in specific areas and if we follow local advice about where not to swim we should be ok. The "mostly" and "should" are a bit worrying, but we are still excited to go and see for ourselves.
 |
| Tom Kollmer |
Jeff and I learned about Tom's death while we were on the boat in Musket Cove. We are very grateful to the staff there for all the assistance they provided. With their help we were able to leave that very afternoon. Patrick and Sophie on the marina staff were particularly helpful with arrangements for the boat and many other staff members were extremely sympathetic and also very helpful with travel arrangements during this stressful time, and we are very grateful.
On October 10 Fred, Ashley and I flew back to Fiji while Jeff remained in the US to finish some business. Ashley, Fred's girlfriend, is the newest member of the crew and appears to be unfazed by the fate of our last fourth crew member.
 |
| Ashley |
Our first few days in Fiji were spent unpacking the 300 pounds of gear and supplies we had brought back with us from the land of plenty, and putting the boat back into cruising shape. We also enjoyed a few of Musket Cove's many amenities including drinks at the tiki bar, beach lounging, windsurfing, paddle boarding and the Thursday night pig roast followed by a demonstration of the local dancing skills. When the dancers came in to begin the program they passed close by my chair. As he went past, one of the warrior dancers lunged at me and let out a war yell right in my face. I let out a very girlly scream in response, much to the warrior's and Fred's delight. This may have been Fred's favorite part of the evening, winning out over even the delicious cracklin they serve as part of the feast.
 |
| These guys are scary! |
Next we went to Vuda Point for some repairs. Ashley got certified for scuba diving while we were there also. Unfortunately, Vuda Point was every bit as hot as I remembered it being. The only relatively cool working hours are from 6 AM to 8 AM. Any time after that the place is like a giant open steam room. Fred, who always sweats a lot, was literally drenched with sweat the entire day, and I was not much drier. Thankfully most of the work got done quickly and we were able to rent a car and escape the heat for a few days.
 |
| Angie windsurfing at Musket Cove |
We drove over to Pacific Harbour and tried to do the infamous Beqa shark dive, but found those dives were booked already for the days we were able to be there, we did soft coral dives instead and saw an underwater wreck, and some really cute, little, blue and yellow ribbon eels.
After that we went into the big town of Suva for a mad provisioning spree. Much to our amazement we found a Costco-like store and got so much stuff there that the car was scraping a bit each time we hit a dip on the way home. Suva itself seemed like most big cities in that there were some great parks and other seeming nice attractions (we didn't actually see any, only the inside of grocery stores), but also some areas you wanted to avoid entirely.
 |
| Musket Cove Beach |
After that we drove back to Vuda point and sailed the next day back to Musket Cove for a joyful reunion with our friends Lisa and Lester on Obsession. It is always a joy to see these two! We were also happy to note that most of the repairs made in Vuda seemed to have taken, with the unfortunate exception of the refrigerator, which just wasn't working quite right.
Next day we sailed back to Port Denerau on the mainland for another joyful reunion with our last arriving crew member Jeff who flew in Tuesday morning. Hooray, Jeff is here!!!
Fred was also able to arrange that a part for our fridge got flown up from New Zealand with an incoming crew memeber for Obsession, which was quite fortuitous as the part is not available here and we know from previous experiences that having something mailed to an island in the Pacific is an extremely slow and frustrating process.
Our plans for the near future are to finish the repairs on the fridge (Ali is working on it as I write this), then head for Vanuatu as soon as the next weather window presents itself. We are all very excited about Vanuatu despite the fact that shark attacks occur there more frequently than anywhere else in the Pacific. Great. We are told, however, that the problems occur mostly in specific areas and if we follow local advice about where not to swim we should be ok. The "mostly" and "should" are a bit worrying, but we are still excited to go and see for ourselves.
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